Signing Out for Now

It seems impossible that I am back in Wisconsin after such an amazing journey. But it's definitely time. My ATM card stopped working, my daughter is a week away from delivering her baby and I waited until Europe to catch the norovirus. Sometimes I'm not too bright but when all the signs are indicating a clear message, I try to PAY ATTENTION! Ironic that I was quite well all throughout India and Africa and never had a delayed flight until Friday night's cancelled one from Chicago to Milwaukee! So I'm home a few days early and the monumental task of sorting through all the valuable data I collected awaits. I'm both excited and terrified by the work ahead. Wish me luck and I welcome any insights you might have to share as you read my blogs and related them to your own life experience. Thank you for your many comments along the way and hopefully your continued interest in understanding and practicing servant leadership!

These kids and those like them all over the world deserve better than what we are currently giving them. The motivation for service is in their eyes, and as I work to interpret and translate this journey into some useful contribution to the work of servant leaders, they are the ones who will keep me honest!

Service to Country

My last set of interviews were as eye opening and surprising as any, five US military offices posted in Heidelberg, Germany. I met with two Lt. Colonels, a Major, a Colonel and a Sargent First Class-two woman and three men. Major John Nguyen was my first, and a real surprise when I found out that he and his family had immigrated from Vietnam at the end of the war. Long story short, he enlisted in the US Army to pay back the gift he felt the US had given his family and him--nothing less than freedom.

My final interview was with a very talented leader named Lt. Colonel Jennifer Humphries who is in charge of the Behavioral Health Unit at the US Military Medical Center in Heidelberg and a social worker by training. Service for both of these individuals meant devotion to country, preservation of our freedom and more immediately the folks they served every day as leaders.

Across the five interviews, I picked up very consistent messaging about servant leadership in the military: 1. Dignity and Respect: Every one deserves it and leaders must model it 2. Investment in leadership development from the beginning: You never know when the formal leader will be missing in action, so everyone must be trained and feel prepared to step in and lead 3. Letting go of ego: The minute it's about you, is the instant you put someone else in harms way 4. Two way trust: Trust is only as strong as the line up and down-hesitation due to lack of trust is not sustainable 5. Providing "top cover": If you want people to take risks, they must know that they are in a safe environment to due so and that their leader has their back. 6. Clear goals, defined boundaries and freedom to move within creates an environment for innovation 7. Continuous feedback and learning: It doesn't matter what your rank, mistakes are learning opportunities immediately and onward. I'm so very grateful for the generosity of time and talent provided and have gained a deepened respect for our Armed Forces and the quality of people leading our national defense and security.

Instrument of Peace

Leaving Africa was difficult. Every time I am here, I feel grounded and at home in a way not experienced elsewhere. Maybe it's the raw connection to nature, the direct contact with those who live so simply and clearly in relation to work, family and survival, and the deep commitment-that is ever present- to serve and create a better life for those in need. Or maybe I'm just really convinced that as the cradle of mankind, Africa is every human's homeland, which makes it all the more unbelievable that white supremacy, extremism and prejudice remain such dominant forces in the world. Leaving Africa on a hopeful note, I discovered that St. Francis's Prayer of Peace is universally applied throughout India (as a Hindu prayer) and in Africa (as a song in Swahili): Lord, make me an instrument of your peace. Where there is hatred, let me sow love. Where there is injury, pardon. Where there is doubt, faith. Where there is despair, hope. Where there is darkness, light. Where there is sadness, joy. Grant that I may not so much seek to be consoled, as to console; to be understood, as to understand; to be loved, as to love. For it is in giving that we receive. It is in pardoning that we are pardoned, and it is in dying that we are born to Eternal Life.

In serving we are transformed; letting go of our selfishness and our misguided thoughts, to be born to a higher consciousness and greater purpose. It sounds pretty lofty, but really is fairly simple, one step at a time.....both Gandhi and Mandela, and all the amazing leaders I have interviewed started somewhere.

The Struggle

Nelson Mandela is a hero, martyr, father to his nation, former president, freedom fighter and an enigma. He spent his life in service to the "struggle" for freedom and equality that began with a commitment to non violence as a vehicle for change. He eventually, however, came to the conclusion that the oppressors would never give way their power and privilege with exclusively non violent measures. He had shifted to military training and tactics when arrested for sabotage and placed in the prison on Robben Island, off the shores of Cape Town. For twenty seven years, he did hard labor in the lime quarry-not for any purpose other than humiliation and backbreaking toil to destroy the spirit in addition to the body. Black prisoners were given sub, sub standard food, clothing and sleeping arrangements over the sub standard conditions for "coloreds" (mixed race) and Indians, following the twisted rationale of Apartheid.

When released in 1990, he successfully led the ANC in negotiations to a multi-racial democracy, ending Apartheid and shepherding in an era of reconciliation and equality for all South Africans. He found a way to forgive and expected others to as well, returning to his roots as a follower of Gandhi's Satyagraha (non-violent resistance) introduced almost a century earlier in South Africa, and denouncing subsequent ANC terrorist activities that injured civilians in the 80's. Service such as his is complex and even confusing to fully understand. The transformation over his life time from freedom fighter, non-violent activist, paramilitary trainer, political prisoner, peace negotiator and revered 'Tata" (Xhosa for father) demonstrates again that humans are certainly capable of great sacrifice and inspiration while at the same time subject to frailty and failings. Gandhi often reminded his followers that he was but a common man with a simple goal. Mandela likewise never desired deification, only fair and equal treatment for his fellow flawed human beings.

It appears that not only is service transformational but the process of transformation involves acts of service to self and others in an imperfect, non-linear and very human manner.

Sustainability

South Africa is such a complex society. The diversity in landscape along with the people is breathtakingly beautiful. Everyone has an opinion about life after Apartheid, but most agree that the government is struggling to change a system that went quickly from oppression when Apartheid ended, to attempts to right past wrongs through social welfare that was not sustainable. It seems that what is on everyone's mind here is how to improve opportunity through education and employment--instead of providing handouts, promoting hand-ups. The country, like so many other African nations is filled with NGO's attempting to partner with local communities to do this work as well. I interviewed one such leader, Paul Durant, Director of the South African branch of Habitat for Humanity here in Capetown.

Paul is another example of a young entrepreneur who made it big in the IT business, but found the chase after money and things to be unsatisfying. He was born to a privileged life in South Africa and migrated to the UK for schooling and business. The gap between rich and poor in both places was a wake up call that his life needed to be about something else. Upon volunteering with Habitat and other NGO's he discovered a different type of satisfaction that occurred concurrently with it a spiritual awakening. Now he leads the South African arm of Habitat in Capetown.

He is attempting to shift the focus of Habitat from home building alone (handout) to community development in partnership with other agencies that can meet the needs of any given community (hand-up) including the training and development of local community councils, enabling them to take over the sustainability of aid provided once the NGOs move on. Paul is attempting to develop the people in his office in much the same way. Once again, I discovered the true merit of a Servant Leader is being smart enough and invested enough to work yourself out of a job!

Apartheid, Corruption and Redemption

Corruption comes in many forms: ideas, practices, policies and personifications. South Africa is a conundrum of the first order, with a history of white European hegemony and current political realities infected by corruption and bankrupt ideology. As Wikepedia describes "in 20th-century political science, the concept of hegemony is central to cultural hegemony, a philosophic and sociologic explanation of how, by the manipulation of the societal value system, one social class dominates the other social classes of a society, with a world view justifying the status quo of bourgeois hegemony". What the Afrikaans perpetrated on the native Africans, immigrant Indians and so-called "coloreds" during Apartheid was horrific and seemingly unforgivable- people categorized as subhuman and treated with less respect and dignity than that of cattle. Unlike Rwanda, truth and reconciliation has been an uphill battle here, perhaps because Apartheid was carefully and fully realized for over fifty years and was institutionalized so completely into the culture, rather than the swift and unimaginable genocide of Rwanda of one tribe pitted against another with white supremacists pulling the strings in the background. In any case, the current rule of the ANC (African National Congress)seems a far cry from what Nelson Mandela desired. Corruption is recognized as problematic be you black or white, with short term pocket filling rationalized as deserved rather than investment in long term vision for a sustainable future. I don't suggest that I understand the complexities, only that deep complex evolution to an enlightened and equal future remains elusive. Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu played critical roles in the peaceful and mostly non-violent transition to a democratic society, but as they have entered their golden years, successors of their merit are sorely needed.

The irony here in Capetown is represented in the beautiful upscale suburbs juxtaposed against township slums with a population of over one million.

Education and healthcare seem to have taken a backseat to social welfare programs that offer short term benefit, but lack long term results. Redemption is somewhat recognizable in a rich diversity that appears to be working on the surface-black, white, Indian, Muslim, Christian, and on and on- a crazy quilt of interaction characterized by a willingness to talk about the present day issues--- but still looking for more....

Letting Go

My father passed away 26 years ago and upon his death I asked for a birthstone ring that he wore for as long as I could remember. It was on the hand that I often held as a little girl. Shortly after his death I took the ring to a jeweler and had the gold melted and reshaped into a ring that I could wear as a remembrance of him and our shared November birthdays over the years. I remember him as a gentle, loving, sensitive father and leader who had a wicked sense of humor. I lost the citrine stone in that ring about six months ago and have been perseverating about it ever sense. About 15 years ago I visited Ireland for the first time-the traditional discover your roots trip-and felt very connected to the beauty of the people and land as well as the golden tones of Jameson Irish Whiskey. While there, I purchased a gold medallion that was a replica of a druid worship stone combining the ancient circular patterns of continuity of the druid spirits with the first Christian symbol of a cross marking the impact of St. Patrick's arrival about 400 AD. For me this symbolized my homeland and a universal spirituality that spoke to my belief system. I have worn that necklace virtually every day and night sense. While walking to the Waterfront here in Cape Town yesterday, that necklace was ripped off my neck by a young robber. I was really upset at loosing this precious object until I started thinking of some of the lessons learned on this journey. The particular lesson that kept coming to me was the one about "letting go". The ring is not my father and the medallion is not my heritage. The problem with possessions is that we want to protect them and hang on at all costs. The same can be said for money, fame, and power-many of the causes of toxic leadership. And what about ideas and perceptions to which we form attachments:prejudice, narrow mindedness,singular interpretations? I am reminded once again that focusing on the small stuff gets in the way of focusing on the right stuff and that letting go is the only way to let new insight come. What might you be holding on to that is holding you back?

Putting It All On The Line

When your goal is nothing short of transformation, be it an organization, community or a country, you have to "go all in". Lip service, halfheartedness, short sightedness, or incompetence won't do. Today's interviews accentuated strategic thinking and skillful facilitation as necessary accompaniments to a service heart. The CRWRC (Christian Reformed World Relief Committee) is engaged in some powerful and unusual leadership in Kenya, a country that has been challenged with conflict, divisive leadership and ethnic/tribal disparities.

Under the recent leadership of Fred Witteveen, the organization has refocused on a new mission that seeks sustainable transformation through conflict mitigation and facilitative processes informed by his skill in "Deep Democracy" (http://deep-democracy.net/) The lesson here: servant leaders need to be more than humble, value centered and committed. The leader becomes a more successful instrument of change when armed with skill, tools, networks, and leverage for resourcing the work to larger scale. His journey included coming to terms with his own white privilege and using the access and opportunity it provides for the sustainable transformation of communities in need-forward action rather than regret and guilt. One of the program directors, Stephan Lutz, hosted us at a marvelous Ethopian Restaurant for his interview. He is a remarkable young man, with wisdom and insights beyond his years and desire to keep growing and learning as a servant leader.

Part of our discussion centered around the indigenous wisdom that existed but was

not valued upon the arrival of colonists and missionaries. In the fervor to bring "truth" and "salvation" to the natives, so many original and important insights were dismissed, particularly concerning self reliance and reverence for the environment. Lesson here-leaders need to recognize and appreciate the natural intelligence of those they lead and avoid the seduction of "knowing better". Instead our job is to facilitate collective and inherent knowledge to bring about solutions that just need uncovering and consensus to move forward. We also talked about Gandhi, Christ and St. Francis and their ability to let go of the trappings of leadership, allowing them to be fully with the people they served, not over. Thank you Stephan and Fred for an enlightening day.

Rosemary Nyerere

What a fantastic day this was. I made a wonderful new friend in the person of Rosemary Nyerere, the daughter to of the late President Julius K. Nyerere, Baba wa Taifa, father of the nation and the leader of the nonviolent revolution that led to independence from British Rule in 1961. We traveled out of the Serengeti to his home village of Butiama near Lake Victoria. There is a small but satisfying museum there that tells of his life and accomplishments as well as his former home when President, only steps from the site of his birth and burial. Mwalimu(teacher) Nyerere was known for his farsighted vision for Tanzania, the unification of the nation, the establishment of Swahili as the national language (no small feat with over 120 tribes and dialects), free access to public education, an ongoing commitment to the eradication of illiteracy, conservation of the land, self sustainability of village life and preservation of the nature, with the establishment of over 25% of the land know within National Park Preservation status.

We had an independently guided orientation to his museum followed by coffee with Rosemary. She is quite the accomplished woman herself, having been in Parliament here as well as a college lecturer in Mathematics. It was such an honor and joy to meet here. She openly shared loving memories of her father and described him in eerily similar fashion as Tara Gandhi for her grandfather: an amazing ability to focus totally on the person at hand, the belief in the good in every human being and the ability to bring out the best in them, deep empathy for those who suffer, and an early and fierce recognition of injustice and unfairness. She described a man of deep intellect, social genius and an unwavering love for his family and country.

"When he died, we all lost a father-the entire nation. But I never minded sharing him, because he was home every night to be with his family, giving us his undivided attention as if he hadn't a care in the world. That was his gift."

Human to Human

We had the privilege of visiting three different tribal villages around Lake Elaysi-real villages not for tourists.

The first was the most ancient tribe in Africa, WaHadzabe who speak click language,better known as Bushman. They have retained their hunting and gathering lifestyle over thousands of years, and are only 2000 remaining in Tanzania with some additional in South Africa. They are a matriarchal society with woman making the decisions, marrying multiple males and reserving intimacy for those who have a successful hunt.

They need arrows to hunt and don't make them themselves, so they depend on the nearby WaDatoga who are herders and farmers (corn/maize) and blacksmiths. They are a patriarchal society and we visited a relatively wealthy clan with four wives (50 head of cattle for each wife) The women were beautiful and delightful and the younger males who were not out tending the herd, demonstrated their arrow and spearhead making process, using recycled aluminum, brass and copper from pieces bought at market. They have bellows made from cowhide that heats the ash rapidly to melt down the metal for reshaping and honing into fine hunting instruments.The women asked me to try my hand at grinding the maze between two stones with a rhythmic motion while they sang in the background. Musical rhythm made the labor much easier, more enjoyable and higher quality.

Our last stop was WaMasaai, the warrior tribe you have probably heard about. They are nomadic herders with a diet consisting totally of meat, milk and blood (taken from the carotid artery with no damage to the animal). They are known as warriors because they used to aggressively take land from other tribes. The government has put a stop to the aggression, encouraged settlement, schooling and farming, so their way of life is slowly changing. A very warm welcome here but more for opportunistic reasons. We had a wonderful tour of the village by the elder's son who had been away at school and learned business strategies-heavy selling of the beautiful beaded handicrafts that WaMasaai are known for. My future doc students will reap the benefit of an amazing beaded talking stick, that was just too tempting to pass up. The Masaai trade for the beads and the beautiful fabric they wear at local village markets, again depending on the talents of others in return for the meat and milk that they can provide. Mutual benefit, mutual gain. What we witnessed were the most fundamental human capacities for creativity and collaboration, service to others and satisfaction for and survival of self.

Symbiosis

My doctoral students often debate whether service is really service if you reap some benefit from it. Watching the natural world makes this debate seem moot. In nature there is a mutual dependency that serves each other and keeps the system working.

Wildebeasts are rather dimwitted so they follow the zebra in migration to water and food sources, the zebra use the accompanying wildebeasts for additional protection from predators. Warthogs often hang out with taller animals who can see farther in the distance, (ie girafe, zebras, elephants) and the tall ones enjoy the sharp sense of smell close to the ground that warthogs provide-again offering, mutual protection (service) for all.

There is a Whistling Thorn tree here that feeds and houses thousands of ants in its large seed pods, and in return the ants attack any animal predator that disturbs the leaves of the tree.

For those of you who remember Selfish Gene theory, you'll recognize the theme-man evolved virtuosity toward others for mutual gain and protection. It's much safer to get along in groups when surrounded by a threatening environment. Even Gandhi, who believed in selfless service to mankind without any benefit to self, enjoyed a higher level of consciousness because of the way he chose to live his life. Perhaps such transactions are necessary and natural, even when transformation occurs.

Life in Balance

Tanzania is all about balance. Nature in balance and humans in balance with nature and one another. Hukuna Matata (no worries) is the way of life here and safari is an amazing melange of sights, sounds, tastes, touch and smell that brings you back to your roots. It's no wonder that this is the cradle of human evolution. Our first few days were spent with the animals, watching and wondering about natural systems and how well they work, without human intervention.

Serving Through Innovation and Entrepreneurship

After two days of Gorilla trekking, I was fortunate enough to interview one of the local conservationists and community activists who works to preserve the forest and animals of Volcanoes National Park. His name is Frances and he is aware of his namesake, St. Frances of Assisi ( a large part of Rwanda is Roman Catholic).

He described, with great detail and pride, the numerous innovations of the Rwanda Development Board for which he works. The basic conflict that he and others were charged with resolving was the tension between the local village farmers and the wild buffalo and gorillas that would come down the mountains and destroy crops--man vs nature. What struck me was both the creative and experimental approaches used to great effect. Ideas are welcomed from bottom up, including the villagers, to insure ownership and enduring viability of results. He even asked for ideas that I might have (for responsible tourism) and took notes when I offered some. As I have heard so many times before, leaders who serve listen first while refraining from premature judgement, act constructively to address the needs they have come to understand, and are always, always willing to learn. No room for infatuation with their own rightness.

And just for fun, I'm including a few pictures of the village children because they are just so darn beautiful!

Ancestral Lessons

Alright,it's official-I have fallen in love with Rwanda, the natural beauty of the land, the people and the unwavering determination to rebuild this nation are stunning. This is Africa's best kept secret and now that we have visited, we are encouraged to be ambassadors of their growing hospitality and tourism industry. If you have been following my posts, you have probably noted some themes among the servant leaders I have interviewed, but the last two days were spent with Diane Fosse's beloved mountain gorillas at Volcanoes National Park. I learned that these distant ancestors of ours are kind, loving, communal, tolerant (of the daily parade of 8 humans that visit each family each day) playful and generous. The Silverback-the leader- serves his family by leading the path to food each day, sleeping on the ground to protect the tree nests of the mothers, babies and juveniles, playing with the youngsters, and intervening decisively and quickly when needed, but quickly returning to calm once the conflict has passed. We witnessed two such incidents: one between two blackbacks (teen males) who were playing a bit too hard and one when a juvenile stole a banana from a baby and the mother started to charge the juvenile. In both cases the Silverback waited to see if the situation would resolve on its own, but when it didn't he immediately and swiftly intervened with his presence and vocalizations-crises resolved instantly and immediate calm restored.

There is no such thing as war, genocide, arrogance, greed, pride, or selfishness among these magnificent primates. Not to stretch the point too far, but I am again struck by human capacity for the depths of debauchery, destruction and despair as well as the heights of artistry, humaneness, and hope for a better future. Maybe our fate is tied to our extremes, but I can't help but wonder if Gandhi's message of returning to our simpler roots and finding ways to live with nature in a more sustainable fashion hasn't been staring us in the face all along--we just haven't been looking in the right places.

Rwandan Transformation

How do you forgive someone who engaged in genocide against your friends, neighbors and relatives? How do you forgive yourself once you understand the evil that you perpetrated? This is the work of unity and reconciliation that Rwanda is undergoing since the 1994 mass genocide. It is a transformed country, moving forward with hope and inspiration under the leadership of the President Paul Kagame. Rwanda has sometimes been referred to as Africa's biggest success story and it's evident in the capital, Kigali. The economy is thriving, 54 percent of the Parliament is held by women and equal rights for all has been heavily endorsed.

I interviewed two impressive people today who are actively working on the continuing transformation of this country. The first was Alex Kewangwa who has devoted his life to working with youth in the work of reconciliation. He engages in many different programs to educate the current youth, but has also worked on the reparation of the youth who were brainwashed into becoming murderers during the 100 days of mass genocide. (estimated 1 million killed in a country that only had 7 million at the time). He believes that the youth are the future of his beloved nation and agrees with the local proverb, only a young tree can be shaped. Alex's family was one of many Tutsi's who left the country in exile in the late 50's when the "troubles" started. He returned in 1994 to help rebuild his country. The passion with which he described both his current work and the horrors of the past was really moving.

The second was a young American woman, Lisa Martilotta who is the Executive Director of Akilah Institute for Women, an affordable post secondary two year training school dedicated to the creation of the next generation of female leaders in Rwanda. Lisa left her lucrative job in Washington DC as a policy analyst to chase her heart's desire helping women in a developing country. In doing so she has found satisfaction and fulfillment.

Upon visiting the Kigali Genocide memorial, we learned that there was no division between the Hutu's and Tutsi's until the German and later Belgium colonists decided that there should be. Eventually the ruling colonists insisted on identification badges using frivolous categorizations including the measurement of noses. Sounds eerily familiar to the root causes of the Jewish Holocaust of World War Two. The lessons of the past and the mantra "Never Again" seem to ring hallow and certainly more difficult to do than say. And BTW the story of Hotel Rwanda is a sham according to people here. The hotel manager is a Hutu who demanded money from anyone taking refuge at Hotel des Mille Collnes. He is exiled in Belgium right now and wanted for war crimes by the local government here. So much for Hollywood fairy tales.

Prasad and Raul

Before I turn my attention fully to Africa, I need to acknowledge the servant leadership of Prasad and Raul, our cultural guides and gurus in India. Prasad is not only a Gandhi scholar, but also one who has devoted his life to spreading the word and deed of Gandhi in India and around the world. He has a vast network of fellow Gandhians, providing us with access to people, places, events experiences and deep, open conversation that otherwise would have been impossible. He provided honest, frank interpretation of what we were seeing and hearing and didn't sugar coat the fact that India is caught up in capitalism, greed and corruption as are other nations around the world. Interestingly, he thinks Gandhi is more misunderstood in India than in the United States-not that we are following his creed either. We had many discussions about the relevance of Gandhi in the 21st century. My observation is that the question is itself irrelevant, since his teachings and modeling can be universally applied, no matter what the context. Prasad was unendingly generous with us in both mind and spirit and ever so patient with our endless questions.

Raul has joined Prasad in the newly formed Gandhi King foundation and accompanied us on most of the trip. He is an agriculturalist by training specializing in organic, sustainable farming and farm industries to support self reliant rural villages. He was ever present to provide any support we needed and eventually revealed a great sense of humor that kept us light hearted through sometimes trying circumstances. Thank you to my new Indian friends and until we meet again.....

From Martyr's Day to Heroes Day in Two Days Time

The last day in India couldn't have been better! We were honored to be included in two ceremonies in recognition of Gandhi's assassination. One was at the site of his cremation in a beautiful park with a permanent memorial. The other wa at the site of his assassination at what is now a museum and institute for studying his life work. We were sitting within 10 feet of the Prime Minister, President, Vice-President, Minister of Defense and so on for both events. What was amazing was that each event included beautiful ecumenical prayers (we are all one even though we choose difference expressions of faith and hope) and Hindu music but notably no speeches. As Gandhi said, his life speaks for itself so additional words were not necessary. Can you imagine all of those dignitaries at one place in America and NO SPEECHES? The first day in Rwanda was a welcome surprise. Hotel Rwanda (really named Hotel des Mille Collines) is really lovely with beautiful vistas, great restaurant spaces, luxurious rooms and great food. Hero's day is the 15th anniversary of the beginning of the reconciliation effort in Rwanda. Every culture needs a hero, every hero needs a cause, and every cause requires sacrifice. It appears that not every leader can be a hero, but all have the capacity for heroism IF they find their calling and passion.

A day in Agra: Hubris vs. Hopefulness

If you gave birth to 14 children and your husbsnd built the Taj Mahal in your honor would you be happy? Probably so, unless you died in childbirth with the last one. The mogel (emporers from Mongoia who ruled in Northern India) that did so in this case was later double-crossed by one of his sons who killed off the male siblings, imprisoned his father, and took over as King. The evil son's rule eventually led to the downfall of the mogels in India and precipitated the rule by the British. Provides a sobering lesson on the hubris of leadership and the toxicity it brings-never sustainable for the long haul. While I hadn't really thought much about visiting this historic site and wasn't really prepared to be impressed, I was, nevertheless. The architectural design and construction by Persians is really impressive, including 6 story columns leaning outward to protect against earthquate damage.

But best part of the day was a 2 hour traffic jam leaving Agra that was a sight to behold. I will post pictures when I can but in the meantime imagine hundreds of cars, bikes, motorcycles, horses, trucks, people, rickshaws, cabs,and pick-ups occupying a four lane road that somehow is now six with no clear lane demarkation moving something like an amoeba accompanyed by honking and waving and shouting to each other BUT with patience and no road rage. Volunteers would appear from nowhere trying to help direct traffic and break up log jams. Best free entertainment I have ever had! Lesson here-progress is messy, organic and sometimes even chaotic, but with faith and a bit of hope and determination the impossible becomes possible!

Jaipur-Guilty Pleasures

If you like camels, elephants ,exotic vistas, people and activity-this is the place. Called the pink city, it is filled with unusual architecture made from the local stone and painted pink. (because of a visit by Prince Albert from London in the 19th century who supposedly favored the pinkish cast sandstone of his homeland) The tradition has continued with pleasing results. This was a pure tourist day of indulgence (and after the austerity of the Gandhi focused pilgrimage- a guilty pleasures).

We rode elephants (ours was named Lashme and she was 40 year old) up a long escarpment to a fort built 300 years ago with a wall that looks like a miniature great wall in China. Ruins around the fort date back more that a 1000 years. The region still has a king, titular monarchy, that continues the lineage of long ago. Our hotel here is a world heritage site and absolutely beautiful. It used to be the King's hunting lodge and was renovated and turned into a hotel called Hotel Umaid Mahal. Google it for some fantastic pictures. Beside the amazing architecture and ornamentation, I had what felt like the best shower of my life with full blast running hot water! Deprivation is the mother of appreciation.

Is it Service?

Today was an interesting day with debates and counterpoints. It started with my question to Prasad asking who doesn’t agree with Gandhi. In brief he listed four categories of people: Hindu extremists who believe they are superior and right, capitalists in search of the rupee at any cost, Markist and Maoist revolutionaries that want to create change through force,and Dalits, the former untouchable, who think they should fight for their rights at any costs. So not all are Gandhians here. Some just give lip service, and the practitioners are in the minority.

My interview for the day was with a fireball named Manimala, a whirlwind of energy, focus and drive. She is President of the Institute where we are staying and is actually employed by the government to spread the work and action of Gandhi. The debate with her was whether service is service if you are paid for it. She says that her current leadership is a type of service because it benefits others and is aligned with her value for improving the human condition. On the other hand. she feels that when she offers herself in service for no monetary gain or benefit it is a purer form of “social work”. Both are valuable but distinct. Additionally, we discussed sustainability. I noted that we are very strategic in America, planning for sustainabily of our efforts as leaders, where as with Gandhi related service, sustainability seems to be a natural outgrowth and not planned for separately. She suggested that leaders should examine first what is worth sustaining. By that she means, what is the intrinsic value of the work and does is improve mankind. If not, perhaps it shouldn’t be sustained. Once that condition is met then she described the creation of self-reliance, empowerment and ownership as key ingredients to the sustainability of not only the outcome but also the process to get there. How clear and simple is that? We ended the day at an elite Institute of Technology, India's comprable MIT. They take the top 1% of 800 applicants each year. Our debate was Gandhi's relevance to the 21st century and the advances in science and technology. We had a room full of spirited professors and students with whom to engage and it was very lively. No consensus, of course, but food for thought. Would Gandhi be using the internet as a tool for organizing non-violent protests against remaining inequities in his country? Would he be railing against the fact that Hyderabad has become the silicon valley of India? What would he think about the ongoing deteriorating relations with Pakistan or the fact that at the Republic Day Parade today, the might of the armed forces were front and center? Notable Gandhi quote: I don't want followers. I need to be my own follower. I know that I don't live up to the convictions that I espouse. At best, we are fellow pilfimrs. I'm not a guru. We are all in the journey together. That was the spirit of debate today-a continuing journey to understand but with the common resolve to do some good in the world, one step at a time. The next two days are pure tourist, Jaipur (the Pink City) and Agra (the Taj Mahal). I'll post pictures upon return!

Tara Gandhi--granddaughter to Mahatma Gandhi

Today was the day to meet another Gandhi Granddaughter, Tara Gandhi, the Executive Director of Gandhi Smirta,the memorial site of the house Gandhi lived his last four months as well as the site of his assassination. He was headed out from a meeting in his room to greet and dialogue with visitors, when an assassin came up to him and touched his feet in reverence and then shot him three times in the chest. Gandhi bowed to his assassin and called out to Ram before passing. He had recently remarked that he would be glad to die in service to his country, even to an assassin. Tara Gandhi was fourteen when this happened and remembers her grandfather well. He had high standards for all including her, even taking time to correct her handwriting. She remembers him as a man that gave you total attention when with you and she watched many of his enemies and antagonists came to visit and argue, yet when they left it was with admiration and friendship. His power was the cold hard truth held equally with compassion. It is widely held that Gandhi discovered Matri Shakti-the strength and compassion inherent in a woman-from his wife Kasturba. Tara thought her Grandmother was equally remarkable-since her husband created such challenges for her daily. I asked if his life fueled her compassion and she responded “Oh I am still working on that, I am not yet as compassionate as I would like to be”. He created a difficult standard to emulate but one that thousands attempt everyday in their devotion to others. Yet, the standard was realistic as well, because he saw it as a lifelong journey of transformation, and his disciples have also adopted that approach.

Dehli

The overnight trains here are something you should experience. We traveled second class with basically upper and lower births, six to a section, so another opportunity for communal living. The mattresses are about 2 inches thick, but that’s about what we have experienced everywhere. My back feels fine –do we need 20 inch thick mattresses in the US? This was our second train trip and this one considered deluxe because they served food-three courses actually and not bad-with abundant hot tea! The bathrooms are another story.

The pictures below show are luggage going to the train on a cart on off the train on the heads.

While Mumbai is considered their financial and commerce capital like New York, Mumbai is the seat of government and similar to Washington DC. Big boulevards, lovely gardens, huge governmental complexes. Prasad arranged a private tour of parliament and we learned that their government seems to be working. Coalition leaders actually talk with each other and get things done. Terms are five years for the lower house (house of commons aka congress) and six for the upper (house of lords aka senate) Unless of course the are dissolved due to lack of support from the people. I’m wondering why we thought our system was an improvement-especially with our current gridlock. One of these days I’ll post some comments we have heard about America. We are staying at Gandhi Darshan, another institute of learning and programming for Gandhi thought and action. We keep seeing and hearing that “a thought is just a thought until it is implemented”. Cold here with temps in the 40’s at night and 60’s during the day. The days are lovely but we have no heating at night- sleeping with many layers of clothes is obligatory, but it’s hard to whine when you see the living conditions of so many less fortunate.

The Children

There is another Ashram in the heart of Ahmadabad and it is where I had one of the most moving interviews yet. One of their projects is dedicated to educating children of the slums. We met with the co-founder who began with one other person twenty five years ago by serving 4 slum kids on the sidewalk outside the ashram. They basically started with washing them and combing their hair and repairing their clothes. The next day 10 came and so on--now they feed, educate and provide health care for 9000 children from the five slums in Ahmadabad. They take no federal, state or grant money because it wouldn’t be sustainable and without strings. All support comes voluntarily from benefactors mainly in the US. He, like so many others we have met, has dedicated his life to serving these kids in need, leaving behind a lucrative career in Chicago as a gifted engineer. He said, "I want to look back on my life and know that I did what I could". This is another place for doctoral study-touching the minds and hearts of slum children-personal, direct and so rewarding. Another overnight train to Dehli and we’ll see what tomorrow brings.

Gandhi's University

Still in Ahmedebad we visited Gandhi’s university where he was the first Chancellor. Met with the registrar who explained the university's roots in Gandhi’s philosophy of education (eerily similar to his contemporary John Dewey, learn by doing) Today the students have formal education in their field of study ( specializing in rural technology development and environmental sustainability) and informal education living communally in hostels where they grow their own food, clean their own rooms as well as the whole campus—learning valuable lessons about collaboration and self reliance. Eventually we were told it was time to go to—a play, a parade? We couldn’t understand but then realized it was to a prayer service. It turned out the we were both the parade and the players placed on a stage in front of 400 students who engaged in a prayer service while spinning. (Gandhian exercise in meditation and self sufficiency to make your own thread then woven into Kadi cloth) The prayers here and in the Ashram's are interfaith, as part of Gandhi's life goal of heal the schism between faith and promoting unity of spiritual devetion to whatever supreme being you desire.

After the service we met with the current Vice Chancellor ( who essentially is the President) for a stimulating conversation on the deeper meaning of service from his point of view. As a leader, how can you be effective unless you put ego aside, finding your self in others and others in you. In other words if see me in you, how can I not want to listen to you, understand your needs and equate your importance as equal to my own? Good question.

Seva Cafe

Later in the day we visited the The Adalaj Step Well which descends five stories down to a fresh water pool-Indo Islamic architecture made out of interlocking sandstone and built in the 1400's. One of the few tourist places we have visited. But the day was topped off with dinner at Seva Café where dinner is paid for with voluntary contributions, the workers are all volunteers and an attached handicraft store supports local village artisans. The cafe is currently being led by a young couple who came to visit the Sanitation Institute for a couple of days and have stayed for a year, leaving behind high powered careers in Mumbai as an architect and engineer. They said, “----spreadsheets don’t bring happiness, a life of service does." That type of dedication is what brings hope for resolving the dire needs of this country. The picture below is of another volunteer--Love all serve all.