A day in Agra: Hubris vs. Hopefulness

If you gave birth to 14 children and your husbsnd built the Taj Mahal in your honor would you be happy? Probably so, unless you died in childbirth with the last one. The mogel (emporers from Mongoia who ruled in Northern India) that did so in this case was later double-crossed by one of his sons who killed off the male siblings, imprisoned his father, and took over as King. The evil son's rule eventually led to the downfall of the mogels in India and precipitated the rule by the British. Provides a sobering lesson on the hubris of leadership and the toxicity it brings-never sustainable for the long haul. While I hadn't really thought much about visiting this historic site and wasn't really prepared to be impressed, I was, nevertheless. The architectural design and construction by Persians is really impressive, including 6 story columns leaning outward to protect against earthquate damage.

But best part of the day was a 2 hour traffic jam leaving Agra that was a sight to behold. I will post pictures when I can but in the meantime imagine hundreds of cars, bikes, motorcycles, horses, trucks, people, rickshaws, cabs,and pick-ups occupying a four lane road that somehow is now six with no clear lane demarkation moving something like an amoeba accompanyed by honking and waving and shouting to each other BUT with patience and no road rage. Volunteers would appear from nowhere trying to help direct traffic and break up log jams. Best free entertainment I have ever had! Lesson here-progress is messy, organic and sometimes even chaotic, but with faith and a bit of hope and determination the impossible becomes possible!

Jaipur-Guilty Pleasures

If you like camels, elephants ,exotic vistas, people and activity-this is the place. Called the pink city, it is filled with unusual architecture made from the local stone and painted pink. (because of a visit by Prince Albert from London in the 19th century who supposedly favored the pinkish cast sandstone of his homeland) The tradition has continued with pleasing results. This was a pure tourist day of indulgence (and after the austerity of the Gandhi focused pilgrimage- a guilty pleasures).

We rode elephants (ours was named Lashme and she was 40 year old) up a long escarpment to a fort built 300 years ago with a wall that looks like a miniature great wall in China. Ruins around the fort date back more that a 1000 years. The region still has a king, titular monarchy, that continues the lineage of long ago. Our hotel here is a world heritage site and absolutely beautiful. It used to be the King's hunting lodge and was renovated and turned into a hotel called Hotel Umaid Mahal. Google it for some fantastic pictures. Beside the amazing architecture and ornamentation, I had what felt like the best shower of my life with full blast running hot water! Deprivation is the mother of appreciation.

Is it Service?

Today was an interesting day with debates and counterpoints. It started with my question to Prasad asking who doesn’t agree with Gandhi. In brief he listed four categories of people: Hindu extremists who believe they are superior and right, capitalists in search of the rupee at any cost, Markist and Maoist revolutionaries that want to create change through force,and Dalits, the former untouchable, who think they should fight for their rights at any costs. So not all are Gandhians here. Some just give lip service, and the practitioners are in the minority.

My interview for the day was with a fireball named Manimala, a whirlwind of energy, focus and drive. She is President of the Institute where we are staying and is actually employed by the government to spread the work and action of Gandhi. The debate with her was whether service is service if you are paid for it. She says that her current leadership is a type of service because it benefits others and is aligned with her value for improving the human condition. On the other hand. she feels that when she offers herself in service for no monetary gain or benefit it is a purer form of “social work”. Both are valuable but distinct. Additionally, we discussed sustainability. I noted that we are very strategic in America, planning for sustainabily of our efforts as leaders, where as with Gandhi related service, sustainability seems to be a natural outgrowth and not planned for separately. She suggested that leaders should examine first what is worth sustaining. By that she means, what is the intrinsic value of the work and does is improve mankind. If not, perhaps it shouldn’t be sustained. Once that condition is met then she described the creation of self-reliance, empowerment and ownership as key ingredients to the sustainability of not only the outcome but also the process to get there. How clear and simple is that? We ended the day at an elite Institute of Technology, India's comprable MIT. They take the top 1% of 800 applicants each year. Our debate was Gandhi's relevance to the 21st century and the advances in science and technology. We had a room full of spirited professors and students with whom to engage and it was very lively. No consensus, of course, but food for thought. Would Gandhi be using the internet as a tool for organizing non-violent protests against remaining inequities in his country? Would he be railing against the fact that Hyderabad has become the silicon valley of India? What would he think about the ongoing deteriorating relations with Pakistan or the fact that at the Republic Day Parade today, the might of the armed forces were front and center? Notable Gandhi quote: I don't want followers. I need to be my own follower. I know that I don't live up to the convictions that I espouse. At best, we are fellow pilfimrs. I'm not a guru. We are all in the journey together. That was the spirit of debate today-a continuing journey to understand but with the common resolve to do some good in the world, one step at a time. The next two days are pure tourist, Jaipur (the Pink City) and Agra (the Taj Mahal). I'll post pictures upon return!

Tara Gandhi--granddaughter to Mahatma Gandhi

Today was the day to meet another Gandhi Granddaughter, Tara Gandhi, the Executive Director of Gandhi Smirta,the memorial site of the house Gandhi lived his last four months as well as the site of his assassination. He was headed out from a meeting in his room to greet and dialogue with visitors, when an assassin came up to him and touched his feet in reverence and then shot him three times in the chest. Gandhi bowed to his assassin and called out to Ram before passing. He had recently remarked that he would be glad to die in service to his country, even to an assassin. Tara Gandhi was fourteen when this happened and remembers her grandfather well. He had high standards for all including her, even taking time to correct her handwriting. She remembers him as a man that gave you total attention when with you and she watched many of his enemies and antagonists came to visit and argue, yet when they left it was with admiration and friendship. His power was the cold hard truth held equally with compassion. It is widely held that Gandhi discovered Matri Shakti-the strength and compassion inherent in a woman-from his wife Kasturba. Tara thought her Grandmother was equally remarkable-since her husband created such challenges for her daily. I asked if his life fueled her compassion and she responded “Oh I am still working on that, I am not yet as compassionate as I would like to be”. He created a difficult standard to emulate but one that thousands attempt everyday in their devotion to others. Yet, the standard was realistic as well, because he saw it as a lifelong journey of transformation, and his disciples have also adopted that approach.

Dehli

The overnight trains here are something you should experience. We traveled second class with basically upper and lower births, six to a section, so another opportunity for communal living. The mattresses are about 2 inches thick, but that’s about what we have experienced everywhere. My back feels fine –do we need 20 inch thick mattresses in the US? This was our second train trip and this one considered deluxe because they served food-three courses actually and not bad-with abundant hot tea! The bathrooms are another story.

The pictures below show are luggage going to the train on a cart on off the train on the heads.

While Mumbai is considered their financial and commerce capital like New York, Mumbai is the seat of government and similar to Washington DC. Big boulevards, lovely gardens, huge governmental complexes. Prasad arranged a private tour of parliament and we learned that their government seems to be working. Coalition leaders actually talk with each other and get things done. Terms are five years for the lower house (house of commons aka congress) and six for the upper (house of lords aka senate) Unless of course the are dissolved due to lack of support from the people. I’m wondering why we thought our system was an improvement-especially with our current gridlock. One of these days I’ll post some comments we have heard about America. We are staying at Gandhi Darshan, another institute of learning and programming for Gandhi thought and action. We keep seeing and hearing that “a thought is just a thought until it is implemented”. Cold here with temps in the 40’s at night and 60’s during the day. The days are lovely but we have no heating at night- sleeping with many layers of clothes is obligatory, but it’s hard to whine when you see the living conditions of so many less fortunate.

The Children

There is another Ashram in the heart of Ahmadabad and it is where I had one of the most moving interviews yet. One of their projects is dedicated to educating children of the slums. We met with the co-founder who began with one other person twenty five years ago by serving 4 slum kids on the sidewalk outside the ashram. They basically started with washing them and combing their hair and repairing their clothes. The next day 10 came and so on--now they feed, educate and provide health care for 9000 children from the five slums in Ahmadabad. They take no federal, state or grant money because it wouldn’t be sustainable and without strings. All support comes voluntarily from benefactors mainly in the US. He, like so many others we have met, has dedicated his life to serving these kids in need, leaving behind a lucrative career in Chicago as a gifted engineer. He said, "I want to look back on my life and know that I did what I could". This is another place for doctoral study-touching the minds and hearts of slum children-personal, direct and so rewarding. Another overnight train to Dehli and we’ll see what tomorrow brings.

Gandhi's University

Still in Ahmedebad we visited Gandhi’s university where he was the first Chancellor. Met with the registrar who explained the university's roots in Gandhi’s philosophy of education (eerily similar to his contemporary John Dewey, learn by doing) Today the students have formal education in their field of study ( specializing in rural technology development and environmental sustainability) and informal education living communally in hostels where they grow their own food, clean their own rooms as well as the whole campus—learning valuable lessons about collaboration and self reliance. Eventually we were told it was time to go to—a play, a parade? We couldn’t understand but then realized it was to a prayer service. It turned out the we were both the parade and the players placed on a stage in front of 400 students who engaged in a prayer service while spinning. (Gandhian exercise in meditation and self sufficiency to make your own thread then woven into Kadi cloth) The prayers here and in the Ashram's are interfaith, as part of Gandhi's life goal of heal the schism between faith and promoting unity of spiritual devetion to whatever supreme being you desire.

After the service we met with the current Vice Chancellor ( who essentially is the President) for a stimulating conversation on the deeper meaning of service from his point of view. As a leader, how can you be effective unless you put ego aside, finding your self in others and others in you. In other words if see me in you, how can I not want to listen to you, understand your needs and equate your importance as equal to my own? Good question.

Seva Cafe

Later in the day we visited the The Adalaj Step Well which descends five stories down to a fresh water pool-Indo Islamic architecture made out of interlocking sandstone and built in the 1400's. One of the few tourist places we have visited. But the day was topped off with dinner at Seva Café where dinner is paid for with voluntary contributions, the workers are all volunteers and an attached handicraft store supports local village artisans. The cafe is currently being led by a young couple who came to visit the Sanitation Institute for a couple of days and have stayed for a year, leaving behind high powered careers in Mumbai as an architect and engineer. They said, “----spreadsheets don’t bring happiness, a life of service does." That type of dedication is what brings hope for resolving the dire needs of this country. The picture below is of another volunteer--Love all serve all.

Ahmedabad

We arrived late in the evening after very long day and evening flight. From Nagpur. With bleary eyes we walked through what we later found out was a toilet garden at an environmental sanitation institute. At first we thought perhaps these were the outdoor facilities we would be using! No need to worry though because we found the best rooms yet awaiting, with Western toilets and running hot water! What a treat a hot shower is for road weary travelers! All the rooms in the guest houses were decorated with local village handicraft work-beautiful. In the morning we discovered the simple beauty of an institute dedicated to rural village sanitation. When started 60 years ago only 8 % had proper toilets and sanitation, and today through their work and others like them 60%. Both Father and Son Patel,two saintly man who follow Gandhi’s in footsteps, lead a group of professionals and volunteers in bringing sanitation technology to hundreds of villages around Ahmedabad. ( the photo abofe is of the son-his father passed away last year) Their institute is an educational and conference facilty but the real work occures in a traveling van that takes workers to the villages to teach the new technology, with capability to show educational movies about cleanliness.

A notable quote-"To open our eyes, we most close our I" I'm thinking this would make a great place for a doctoral study of service, including assisting with the village visits. They welcome volunteers and the takaways on direct service for a basic human need would be immense.

A Day in Mumbai

Two more interviews, one with the founder and creator of the most massive and informative website on Gandhi. If you Google Gandhi you’ll find his site right after Wikipedia. He has devoted his life to spreading the works , wisdom and practical application of Gandhi’s work worldwide. He runs a book distribution center, the website and also educational programs for children and prisoners. 50000 school children have successfully “sat” for a Gandhi exam demonstrating their knowledge and proficiency along with 15,000 prisoners who in addition to passing the exam receive reduced prison sentences and the possibility of rehabilitative work on the outside to become self reliant citizens! Sound like an idea that the US could use. BTW you can sign up on the website to receive a Gandhi quote of the day for contemplation. We also visited the house in Mumbai where Gandhi lived from as a guest of a wealthy industrialist who supported and believed in the work. The house is now a museum and educational center, with Gandhi’s granddaughter serving as executive director. She was unfortunately out of town so we interviewed the Associate Director and one of the trustees. They informed us that is is now a law in India that for profit industries must give back to their fellow humans by adopting rural villages to promote the Gandhi model of self sufficiency and satisfaction. The Associate Director also serves as the Executive Secretary for one of the largest Gandhian foundations in the country which awards support to applicants that create constructive models for rural community development. Both amazing women.

Tree Hugging

Have you ever wondered how conservationists were handed the moniker "tree hugger". Well, I met the woman responsible for the initiation of that concept. Her name is Radha Ghatt, the President of the Gandhi Peace Foundation in New Dehli and also Executive Director of an Organization in Sevagram call Servsayoung meaning Service to All. She began her life as a poor rural Himalayan village girl where traditional values dictated early arranged marriage and continued traditional life. For some reason she doesn't fully understand, she felt called to do something larger with her life and clearly shared her plans with her father. As with so many women I have interviewed he played a pivotal role in her liberation. He wasn't thrilled with her choice but he respected it and responded to families who came calling with marital petitions that if she said yes, he would agree. The villages thought him naive and even a little crazy to leave such a decision up to her, and of course she never said yes. As a result he sent her to school (also very unusual) and eventually arranged for a placement in an Ashram that served the numerous mountain villages. While Radha new Gandhi academically, she came to understood his values and philosophy by living in a particular village for over five years. How did she serve? By listening to their needs and trusting in their wisdom to be able to take charge of thier own destiny. In this village the women were complaining that the men were not protecting the forests they needed for food sources. Bahta suggested that perhaps the women could protect thier own forests. Long story short the men were fired, the women took over and all was good until a construction crew came to put a roadway right through the middle of the forest. The empowered village women took it upon themselves to hug the trees and suggest to the construction crew that if they wanted the trees they would have to cut through the women first. Can you imagine both the creativity and courage it took to come up with this peaceful, non violent solution to a very real and dangerous dilemma? As I left my interview with Bahta, she was on her way to a week long village walk along a stretch of border where Maoists were inciting violent protests against the district governmnet and recuriting youth to their terrorist tactics. Bahta's goal was to help the villagers see that they have the power to solve the problems peacefully and persistently without the Maoists. "Aren't you a bit worried about the guns that will be trained on you?" I ask. "Well", Bahta replies,"the danger is real but the cause is necessary. These villagers deserve better. I just want to help them see that they can create it themselves." Bahta is in her 70's--from where does this type of fealessness come?

Sevagram Ashram

An Ashram is a collection of small simple houses with the common purpose of living together sucessfully in self reliance, positive relationship with one another, spirituality that crosses all faiths, and sustainability. Gandhi espoused these principles and founded such Ashrams all across India. We visited the Wharda Ashram in Sevegram and particpated in their evening interfaith meditation and prayer and were introduced to the simple yet profound pleasures of harmonious living. Ghandhi lived here for many years developing rural technologies that support independence and, he would say, freedom. The current director is 79 years old and fulfilling the last year of his tenure when he turns 80. ( He wants to be able to cut back to only three days a week after that!)Rising at 4:30 each morning and working until late in the evening, his devotion and commitment to the work of the Ashram is incredible but not unusual among the Gandhians we have met. He began life as a young boy scavenging latrines (you'll have to Google that for further explanation) and credits that experience with teaching him the valuable lesson of humility. He always knew that he wanted to serve others and tried Social Work and the Law, eventually serving on the Supreme Court for his state. He found the law less satisfying and too cumbersome as a vehicle for change so joined the Ashram at the age of 60. Gandhi infamously said, "My life is my message" and this amazing individual now feels that he can look back on his life "with satisfaction. I have lived a life of meaning and what more can one desire?"

Finding Him

We have been at the Ashram in Sewagram for the past two days experiencing the translation of Gandhi's ideals into action. As he said, "thought is just thought until it's implemented". Because he saw the inter-connectedness of just about everything his ideal of creating self reliance for ALL has political, economic an social ramifications. The ashram is a living model of equality, empowerment and contentment, as are the thirty or so other practical enterprises in and around this area--all making a positive impact on the quality of rural life. I have limited time on the computer tonight so will post pictures and more details in two days time, when better connectivity is available. I have conducted two individual interviews and we have held meetings with countless other individuals so my head is bursting. Just as a teaser for future posts, I met the woman who is responsible for the inception of conservationists being known as tree huggers. Her work in the mountain villages empowered women to protect their forests in order to sustain their food source for their families. When a highway was about to go through it was her village women who came up with idea of hugging the trees and challenging the construction crews to cut through them first if they wanted the to remove the trees. The crews backed down and the road was detoured. The courage and commitment is overwhelming!

Searching for Gandhi

After a very full first day in Hyderabad, India, the idea of blogging to attempt to describe this experience seems woefully inadequate. Prasad, our Gandhi scholar and guide, wisely had us spend the morning at a wellness institute named Addlife, clearing our mind and detoxifying our bodies with yoga, message and steam baths. The Yoga was supposed to be for beginners, but I'm supposing that means Indian beginners. It was equal parts taxing and relaxing for us American novices. All I'll say about the message was that it involved a lot of slapping, popping and clapping and that was just the face! We left feeling renewed and ready for the challenges of Hyderabad traffic and the stimulation of exploration (a reminder that mindful learning and leadership begins with taking care of one's self) On the surface, Gandhi can be found easily here-statues, portraits, named entities- but the deeper meaning of his life's message requires conversation and visitation-today included three remarkable venues. The first stop was Bhoodan Pochampalli where an amazing land gift movement began with a disciple of Gandhi, Acharya Vanobaji, initiating his 14 year walk across India resulting in thousands of acres of land being donated:one acre-one man-sustains life. Nearby, a State sponsored Technical Institute provides free tuition to rural students seeking skills and employablity. What's incredible is that a full third of their curriculum is devoted to the "Personal Self" with courses on leading a Gandhian value-based life. They would like to establish a relationship with Stritch related to moral and values based leadership and management. (Janice and Peter H. are you reading this?)Lastly, and the most most moving, was to the village of Burujugadda, a pilot in community development in rural village life that has transformed from 0% to 100% self sustainability and literacy over the last 25 years. Prasad has been their main sponsor and lived with the tribal inhabitants for the first few years to initiate the transformation. He says that now he just visits and enjoys the life they have created because they are now able to do everything themselves, however it's clear that he is still mightily engaged. The villagers welcomed us with song, gifts, and smiles a mile wide. Everyone was immensely proud to show us their homes, school and temple. Luckily we arrived on the last day of Harvest Festival activities and cheered them on with a motorbike race for the boys (that was judged on the basis of who could be the slowest and not fall off their bike) and a bicycle race for the girls (who proudly raced as fast as they could to show off their newly donated bikes which allows them to ride to the high school 3 miles away). Go Girls! What an amazing day.........more to come.

Thank YOU!

Thanks to those of you who persevered through my three emails to get to the correct website. Thanks especially to Nick and Angela for helping out! As you can see, I am a novice at this blogging world but will do my best! So here's a heads up about my itinerary: Leaving Sunday, January 15th, for Hyderabad, India to meet up with a Gandhi scholar, Prasad Gollanapalli, who is leading a Gandhi pilgrimage of 7 intrepid travelers. We will be following in Gandhi's footsteps throughout India and Prasad has arranged for several interviews along the way with leaders who have incorporated Gandhi's philosophy into their leadership practice. Next stop Rwanda on January 31st where I meet up with my husband and will be staying at "Hotel Rwanda", (really called Sabena Hôtel des Mille Collines). Interviews arranged there and more to come. Following Rwanda is Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa. The trip will culminate in Europe with two stops, one in Germany and the last in England. Thanks for journeying with me-it's comforting to know you will be by my virtual side.

Leaving Soon

I'm leaving for India in six short days.  I'm trying out a new dictation software on my iPad to see if this is useful for future posts. Stay tuned,